The Right Way to Sharpen Your Spyderco for a Razor-Sharp Edge

By Logan M. Fraser – Custom Knife Modder & Spyderco Parts Specialist, Based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada

This is the 17th blog of the Spyderco Knife blog series. You can check the other blogs I’ve written here: https://spydercoparts.com/blogs

If you want a razor-sharp edge on your Spyderco, technique matters more than fancy gear. I’ve sharpened everything from factory-fresh Para 3s to beat-up Rescues, and I can tell you firsthand—Spyderco knives respond incredibly well to the right process.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the correct sharpening steps, explain why angles matter, and help you avoid the most common mistakes that kill cutting performance.

Step 1: Know Your Edge Geometry 🔍

Most Spyderco knives come with:

A 40° inclusive bevel (20° per side)
Or a 30° inclusive back bevel (15° per side) with a micro-bevel

Check your edge with a Sharpie trick: color the bevel, take a few passes on your sharpener, and inspect where the color comes off.

This tells you whether you’re hitting the apex or just polishing the shoulder.

Step 2: Choose the Right Sharpening System ⚖️

I personally recommend:

1. Spyderco Sharpmaker

Easy to use
Pre-set angles: 30° and 40°
Great for maintenance and micro-bevels

Learn more about setup on https://spyderco.com —they offer detailed instructions and replacement rods.

2. Wicked Edge or KME (for precision)

Adjustable angles for re-profiling
Ideal for harder steels (e.g., Maxamet, S110V)

3. Freehand Stones

Only if you’re experienced
Use ceramics or diamond plates with a strop to finish

Step 3: Establish a Clean Apex ✂️

No matter what you use, your goal is to:

Reach the very apex of the edge
Sharpen until a burr forms on one side
Flip and repeat until burr is even

🔊 Pro tip: You should feel the burr with your fingertip along the opposite side of the blade. This tells you it’s time to switch sides.

Step 4: Set a Micro-Bevel 🔪

Once your bevel is established:

Switch to a slightly steeper angle (e.g., 40° if your main bevel is 30°)
Do 1–2 light strokes per side

This tiny edge adds durability without dulling the blade. Spyderco uses this technique from the factory for a reason.

Step 5: Polish and Strop 🪜

To bring out a hair-popping edge:

Use a fine ceramic or leather strop with compound
Maintain angle consistency
Light pressure only

Finishing like this refines the edge and removes the burr cleanly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid ⚠️

Using too much pressure (kills the apex)
Not checking for burrs (you’ll waste effort)
Skipping grit progression (won’t refine the edge)
Over-polishing (removes bite from the edge)

My Modder Insight 🧱

Harder steels like Maxamet or S90V take more time. I always:

Start with diamond stones
Take extra time at the apex
Never rush stropping (it makes the edge shine and bite)

On high-end Spydercos, patience is what separates a decent edge from a world-class slicer.

Maintaining the Edge Between Sessions ⏰

Touch up often to avoid full re-sharpening:

Use Sharpmaker white rods at 40° for maintenance
Strop weekly with compound
Clean the edge after use to remove residue

A well-maintained Spyderco should only need full sharpening once every few months—even with regular carry.

Recommended Tools and Parts 🔧

At https://spydercoparts.com, we carry hardware kits and backspacers designed to handle frequent disassembly. If you like to remove your blade before sharpening or tune pivot tension, our parts make it easier without compromising fit.

We test every item to make sure it plays nicely with real-world maintenance.